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Modern Soju

Unlike Japan’s storied sake tradition—shaped over centuries by codified brewing practices, meticulous rice polishing, and clear distinctions such as Junmai, made solely from rice and water—South Korea’s national beverage followed a far less insulated path. Its character was not formed by refinement alone, but by the foreign powers that exerted pressure on the Korean Peninsula, leaving their mark on its ingredients, techniques, and purpose.

That turning point arrived in the 13th century, when the Mongol invasions carried more than soldiers across the peninsula. Along with conquest came new methods of distillation—techniques that would transform Korea’s drinking culture and lay the foundation for what would become soju.

sot (cauldron) topped with soju gori (a two-story distilling appliance with a pipe)

Where sake is a brewed (fermented) liquor, soju employs fermentation and distillation to produce a spirit much like vodka in that is is a clear liquid but is a lower ABV. The Mongolian invaders brought the art of distilling from their earlier occupation of Persia in the Middle East. The traditional soju was made by fermenting rice with water and a Nuruk—a fermentation cake that introduces wild yeast and bacteria, necessary for starting fermentation. The resulting solution—Makgeolli—is boiled in a "sot" or cauldron then once or twice distilled in ceramic two-tier pot stills similar to the image called a Sujogori, resulting in a spirit that ranged wildly from 12% to 50% ABV.

It is worth noting before distillation was introduced, makgeolli, also know as "farmers wine", was known as a communal beverage that has been consumed in the region for centuries before the invaders came. The fermented mash is strained producing a cloudy, low ABV, slightly sparkling beverage. that is bitter, tangy, sweet and a little astringent. It can still be found today as a commercial beverage but with changes in ingredients as we will see later the flavours have changed over time.

As the centuries passed and dynasties rose and fell, soju and its methods of production remained largely unchanged. Commercial breweries existed, but home distillation was commonplace, and the spirit retained its close ties to rice and regional craft. That continuity endured until the Japanese occupation of Korea (1910–1945), when colonial authorities moved systematically to dismantle traditional Korean culture—upending, restricting, and ultimately industrializing the production of rice-based soju.

Through licensing systems, steep taxation, and bans on home brewing, the Japanese administration forced the drink away from small-batch, rice-distilled roots and toward centralized mass production. Continuous-column stills replaced traditional methods, distilling spirit at high proof before diluting it for sale. Cheaper grains and starches supplanted rice. In the process, soju was transformed—its production streamlined, its character lightened, and its flavor profile fundamentally altered.

After 35 years of rule by the Japanese, the division of the peninsula into North and South Korea and the ensuing war, South Korea after 1953 was a country that could now attempt to regain their collective culture but who were pressed to do so as they were recovering from occupation and war and suffering shortages of basic foodstuffs like rice. This fact and the following government bans against using rice for brewing soju caused other less expensive starches like sweet potatoes and tapioca to become commonplace. These different starting elements have an effect on the final flavours detectable in the final spirit, taking the spirit further the roots of traditional Soju.

By the time the government bans were lifted in the early 1990's much of the Soju culture was forever changed and the commercial products using cheaper grains and starches remain very popular in the Korean culture. In the 2000's though there is a growing recognition that heritage liquors are a cultural asset so government incentives were put in place to try and engage more of the population to produce soju in the traditional fashion and the recently the Pandemic allowed for direct home sales introducing traditional rice spirts like craft produced Makgeolli and Soju to be discovered by some and rediscovered by others. Since the pandemic there are more tasting bars and cocktail lounges in South Korea showcasing Asian spirits and their versatility as spirits to be sipped happily on their own, consumed with great cuisine or crafted into a delightful cocktail. Try it with Korean BBQ, a spicy fish stew or grilled clams!

Cheers to Soju

Soju is meant to be shared and there are some rules of etiquette when serving.

It is not meant to be enjoyed alone. it is to be shared with family, friends, and work colleagues. Advanced Mixology explains, "Pouring soju for others fosters a sense of togetherness and is one of Korea's oldest customs."

One of the important rules is not to fill your own glass. It is to be poured using both hands. First to the oldest or highest status individual in the group. After all of the glasses have been filled, clink your glasses and say Geonbae! or Jjan!—"Cheers!"

Hide your glass with your hand as you take your first drink as a shot and following glasses can be sipped.

So try pairing soju with some good food and great friends or enjoy our featured soju cocktail, Lemongrass Kiss!

Enjoy!—Jeulgida!

If you are looking to try some of these spirits here are some Greenrock keep in store:

Makgeolli: the the first step in soju production, the fermented rice beverage is filtered leaving a milky, lightly sparkling, beverage that is a mix of sweet, savoury and tangy flavours with a low ABV; It can be pasteurized—called draft or "saeng makgeolli"—that continues to mature in the bottle or pasteurized for a longer shelf life. Adding fruit flavour is also becoming more common. Check out the Makgeolli in stock!

Soju: As stated before the large commercial production of soju often uses other starches than rice to produce a higher ABV alcohol that is diluted with water to a range of ABV usually within 12 to 20 % (note traditionally produced soju can be 30 to 50% ABV) and sweetened in addition since 2015 fruit flavours are readily added. Check out the Soju in stock!

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